London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 is in full swing in the one of the fashion capitals of the world.
The OnoBello.com Fashion and Style Department is doing Show Reports on some select designers showcasing their latest collection this season.
According to a review by Vogue’s Sarah Mower, excepts from it reads:”The material for Erdem Moralioglu’s narrative fell into his lap this season. He and his partner, Philip Joseph, have recently bought a house in Bloomsbury, “and there was a plaque around the corner dedicated to two sisters, Stella and Fanny, who in fact were Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton, who lived as women in the 1860s.” Perfect fit! Historical research is Moralioglu’s creative lifeblood he must have narratives and this chance clue led him to a collection of rich Victoriana references, full of current resonances with today’s politics of gender self-identification.
Fanny and Stella, retrospectively honored as heroines of queer London in that plaque, were very publicly out and about in Victorian nightlife. In 1870, the notorious ladies were arrested leaving the Strand Theatre and charged with “conspiring and inciting persons to commit an unnatural offense” although they were later acquitted. (A side outrage was that they insisted on using the ladies’ lavatories, a familiar flash point today.) Moralioglu showed in the National Portrait Gallery, whose curators gave him access to the photography archive, where he uncovered yet more characters of the Victorian stage, female entertainers who dressed as men.
“Far beyond any perceived thrill of cross-dressing,” he wrote in his press notes, “these were individuals with the courage to explore the power of self-expression.” He also pointed to comparisons with the counterculture of ’90s clubland, one of the constant wellsprings of fashion creativity to this day.”
Scroll down for the full collection below.
Credit: Vogue. com/ Photo credit: indigital.tv
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